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The DMM Dragon Cams and the Wild Country Friends are sturdy like Camalots, but have a lighter Dyneema sling that needs to be changed extra usually than nylon. Light is right for most climbers, whether which means a lighter backpack on the method, a lighter haul bag on the wall, or simply much less weight in your harness. The authentic Friends and rigid stem cams from Chouinard Equipment had been heavy and powerful. Today’s cam manufacturers are in constant competition to make their product lighter while retaining holding power (around 12KN for a lot of the larger sizes). The average climber could have between cams on their harness for each pitch, so even minimal weight financial savings per unit is essential to the bigger picture.
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Cams with smaller, narrower heads can slot in smaller, tighter placements, which is a large advantage. Flexible stems are additionally good for tight placements, as they don’t are probably to lever out on a bit the same means a rigid stem can, especially in shallow pin scars. The DMM Dragonfly is a top scorer, as its green #1 measurement measures right down to 7.8mm, while additionally still testing at a 6kN energy. The latest green zero BD Z4 protects all the method down to 7.5mm, however solely has a power ranking of 5kN, slightly less than the Dragonfly.